You probably know Blue Ox Axe Throwing as the downtown Hillsboro spot to hurl sharp objects at wooden targets. But step inside and you’ll find the city’s newest slow-smoked, fat-rendered, rib-loaded barbecue joint.

Fat Baby Barbecue opened in May at 264 E. Main St., marking a full-flavored pivot — though not a full departure — for the downtown activity space.

Owner Lani Eversage brought the ax-throwing concept to Hillsboro in 2023, after first taking the activity-forward franchise to Oregon City. But novelty has dulled over the years, he admits.

“When we first opened in Oregon City, it was the best couple of years because there wasn’t a ton of competition,” Eversage said. “And then over the last five years, there’s like 20 (businesses), and it’s also this activity that I think has probably turned into something like, ‘Oh, I’ve done that,’ so it’s not as popular.”

Spicing up the business

The Hillsboro location was supposed to step up as a “a bigger, better version,” he said — but drawing a crowd proved trickier than expected. The team tried everything: video games, karaoke, bingo nights, live music and a full bar. The limited menu wasn’t doing the business any favors, however.

“For food, I was thinking about basic stuff,” Eversage said. “Pretty soon I realized people, families, still need to eat. And even when money’s tight, I think the one thing that people still go to is a good dinner.”

So nearly a year ago, he made the call to lean into food, double down on flavor and bring in barbecue.

The name Fat Baby Barbecue is bold, playful and just a little over the top — exactly as intended. Eversage wanted to separate the smoke-forward eatery from its ax-throwing origins.

“I wanted a different name because, like, ‘Blue Ox Axe’ — people think you have to be throwing axes to go to that place,” he said. “So we eventually dropped it on Google Maps to ‘Blue Ox Hillsboro.’ We’re already trying to spin it as Hillsboro’s living room. Come hang out, do some stuff.”

“Having a name with a little alliteration, ‘Fat Baby Barbecue,’ it’s this big draw name,” he added. “Your first impression is everything — whether it’s a food cart or a new restaurant or just this. It’s hard to change someone’s perspective.”

So, what’s cooking?

“Smoked slow, served fat” is the Fat Baby mantra. The style is Texas-inspired, with a slightly sweet sauce, deep crust and just enough salt to let the smoke shine through.

Behind the smokers is pit master Scott Fullerton, who trained under Diane Santucci at Portland’s iconic Russell Street BBQ and now runs the show at Fat Baby.

“He’s now leading our smoke program, bringing that Texas-style barbecue experience into every brisket, rib and pulled pork shoulder we serve,” Eversage said.

In the kitchen, chef Nick Pothakos keeps operations running smoothly — overseeing the sides and ensuring quality on every final plate.

Brisket, ribs and pulled pork are smoked fresh every Thursday, Friday and Saturday — and they don’t stick around long. With an on-site smokehouse off the table, Eversage teamed up with local business owner Mindy Simmons to fire up two 500-gallon smokers behind the Collective Market on Northeast Third Avenue. If you’re anywhere nearby, the smoke will find you first.

“It’s usually a 12- to 14-hour smoke for that brisket in particular, and then we rest it all the way through the night,” Eversage said. “It’s kept warm in the warmer, so you get this perfect fat emulsion, like all the things render.”

But don’t stop at the sliced proteins. The menu leans all the way into comfort food cravings with sauced-up wings, smash burger tacos and pulled pork piled onto creamy mac and cheese.

Like its brisket, the business is taking things slow by dialing in the flavors and letting the smoke (and word-of-mouth) do the talking.

“Our goal would be just sticking to making sure we do this really well,” Eversage said. “Then figure out how we can incorporate catering so that we can do on-site events.”

In the meantime, the plan is to layer in perks with discounted ax throwing, weekend events and a food-first approach that might just turn Hillsboro’s living room into a new dining staple.